10 Cycling Tips to Riding Smoother and Faster on your Bicycle

TIP 1: Finding the Right Bike

Narrowing down your choice for a bike may seem daunting at first, but when equipped with the right information, it can be very simple. With so many different manufacturers, making many different styles/types of bikes, and each in a different style at different price points there is a lot to decipher. So we try to make it easy...

First, decide what type of riding you enjoy. Here is a breakdown of the different style bike;

- Mountain bikes which are good for trail, or dirt, riding. - Mountain bikes tend to be slow on the road due to the wide tires and the additional weight. - Hybrid or Comfort bikes are great for general commuting, bike paths, or for people who have just started riding again. These bikes are built for comfort and not necessarily speed. - Road bikes are faster rolling, with more aerodynamic positioning. They generally come equipped with narrow tires and racing style handlebars. There are best matched for riding on paved roads, especially long distances (anything over 15 miles). - Triathlon bikes come equipped with tri bars for a more aero positioning. They generally have a slightly different positioning then a road bike. If you are looking to do several Triathlons each year, investing in a tri specific bike may be a wise choice.

Once you've narrowed down the type of bike you would like you should now consider what you could afford. Each of these styles/types of bikes come in price points ranging from about $300.00 up to a whopping $1600.00. The price point is directly related to the weight, components and the amount of technology associated with the bike. There is a compromise. We all have different budgets and priorities, that's why there is so much choice.

Next, consider that a woman's physical structure is very different from a man's structure. A woman's pelvis is tilted forward, which ultimately causes 15% more pressure on her lower back when in the same bent over position as a man. The soft tissue on a female has a different density and distribution than a man's, which requires a slightly different saddle position and shape. Women's hands are not only smaller than men's, but also generally not as strong as men's therefore women benefit from shorter reach brake levers and smaller diameter grips. Ultimately, Trek WSD (Women's Specific Design) Geometry addresses these differences by shortening the reach and balancing a woman's weight more evenly between hands and hips providing better comfort and control on the bike. We also provide women's specific design comfort on all contact points alleviating discomfort and increasing control and power.

Ok, now with this information, you are ready to test ride some bikes. The Trek WSD Fit for Women demo tour has many stops within North America. For a detailed list of stops, check out www.fitforwomentour.com. The tour will also be at all 8 Danskin Triathlons. Each Saturday on Race weekend, look for the blue Trek WSD Fit for Women demo truck. They have a variety of 2007 Trek WSD road, triathlon and hybrid/comfort bikes for you to test ride, for free!

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TIP 2: Test Riding Bikes

This is a FREE service to help you select the right bike. Please visit us and experience the Trek WSD difference! If you would like to know which models are on the truck, please visit our website www.fitforwomentour.com.

-	Allow yourself plenty of time for the test ride
-	You will need to fill out a quick registration/waiver form and provide us with a valid driver's license or Credit Card. (Of course your credit card will not be charged, unless of course you disappear or damage the product.)
-	If you are under 18, you will need a parent to fill out your registration/waiver form.
-	We recommend that you use the shoes that you typically ride with or are most comfortable. Cycling shoes or runners.
-	If you've forgotten your helmet, we have a limited number of helmets available for use. But it is best to bring your own personal riding gear if possible.
-	If you have a particular pedal that you prefer to use, please bring them, along with your cycling shoes. While we stock a number of the most common clip and flat pedals, we don't have every brand.

At the Trek WSD Fit for Women Demo truck, you can ride as many bikes as you wish! We would love you to try our entire inventory and we will do our best to get you on whatever you want to ride. We appreciate your patience, as sometimes we get busy.

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TIP 3: Finding the Proper Bike Fit

A proper fit combined with correct riding style, should allow you to ride according to your fitness, not the soreness in your body. It is normal to get sore and tight shoulder muscles if we are riding an improperly fit bicycle, or have incorrect posture on the bike. The good news is that there are a number of things we can do to help alleviate any soreness and get you riding longer and faster!

First, you should check your fit setup. If you are not sure how to do this, make an appointment with your authorized Trek dealer for a bike fit. Bring your bike, biking shoes and shorts you normally ride in.

Things to look for in a bike fit are; seat height, cockpit length, and height of handlebars. For more detailed information click here.

Next, analyze your riding style. It's very important to have a straight back with shoulders rolled slightly back. While riding, your grip on the handlebars should be light, but firm. You should have a slight bend in your elbow and relax your arms and shoulders. Use your core muscles to hold you up right not your arms. When you use your arms it causes sore shoulders and possibly wrists and hands. Also, do not relax or slouch on your saddle as it leads to sore soft tissue areas.

But ultimately there is no reason you should be sore on the bike. We can make so many minor adjustments to help custom fit the bike precisely to your needs. Be sure to consult with your local dealer if you have any fit issues.

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TIP 4: Starting your Bicycle with Grace and Efficiency

The goal of a good start is to get up to speed safely and efficiently. One of the most basic skills of cycling is the ability to ride straight, without wobbling from side to side. This is important in traffic, but also in races and in groups.

Some people have not practiced the art of mounting their bike and develop some bad habits. These habits can be inefficient as well as dangerous. The two most common bad habits are "the bunny hop" and the "cowboy mount". The bunny hop involves standing on the low pedal, and trying to get the bike in motion by pushing off against the ground with the other foot with many small jumps... you can't get up to speed quickly this way, and you definitely can't get started uphill with this technique. This technique is popular among beginner women. The cowboy mount involves standing next to your bike, putting one foot on a pedal, then swinging the other leg over the saddle while the bicycle is in motion. Using this technique can be very dangerous in traffic and when starting during a race! Your center of gravity is off-balance and it is difficult to keep the bike going in a straight line. This technique is common among beginner men, don't follow their lead!

Here's the correct basic starting technique:

First, stand over the frame, both feet on the ground, in front of the saddle. Most people get to this position by swinging a leg over the saddle. It sometimes helps to lean the bike to the side before straddling it. Do not try to sit on the saddle while the bike is stopped.

Next, rotate the pedals so that the pedal for your less powerful foot is at the 9 O'clock position (45 degrees forward of straight up). Which puts your other pedal at the 3 O'clock position.

Put your foot on the high pedal (if your are using clips, clip this foot in) and start to pedal with this leg by pressing down hard. This will simultaneously let you use the pedal as a step to lift yourself high enough to get onto the saddle and apply driving force to the chain, causing the bike to pick up speed. This requires you to commit! As your other pedal comes around start pedaling with both legs. If you are using clips, don't worry about clipping in the second foot until you are at a comfortable speed and you have good control of your bike.

You may want to experiment to find the most suitable starting gear on your bike. Too low a gear will cause the pedal to descend too fast not giving you support as you step up. Too high a gear will not get the bike accelerating fast enough to reach balancing speed.

Taking time to learn this technique will help you to become a better, safer and faster cyclist.

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TIP 5: Stopping your Bicycle with Grace

The goal is to be able to stop your bicycle safely and without the fear of falling over. When approaching a known stop, start to shift your rear derailleur into a smaller gear (see Tip 6, Gearing... Do you really know what to do with all those gears?). This is called downshifting. As you practice this, you will be able to find your gears quickly and know which you want to be in. Being in a smaller gear will also allow you to start easily (see tip 4, Starting your Bicycle with Grace and Efficiency). Slowly start to use your brakes. You should be using about 75% rear brake and about 25% front brake. Too much front brake will cause you to fly over the handlebars, and too much rear brake doesn't give you enough power. Modulating both brakes to create a smooth and safe stop takes practice. When stopping, rest your weight on one pedal (usually the non-power leg). If you are using clips, unclip your other foot well before the stop. This foot should not touch the ground until your bicycle is pretty much stopped. Putting your foot down too early and using it as a brake, not only wears out your shoes, but can also be dangerous.

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TIP 6: Gears... Do you really know what to do with all those gears?

If the amount of gears on your bike intimidates you, this tip is for you! Multi-speed gears help you to climb and descend hills more efficiently. They also allow you to be more efficient while riding into a head wind, or with a tail wind. Knowing where your gears are located and when and how to change them takes a little practice, but in the long run is well worth your effort. Not only will you become a much more efficient rider, but you will be able to ride faster with less effort and longer, without tiring! Not to mention being more comfortable and happy on your bike!

Most Trek WSD road and mountain bikes have at least two gear rings attached to your bottom bracket (front chainrings) and have 6-10 gears on the rear wheel (rear cassette). The front derailleur is attached to your front shifter, which allows you to change the gears on your front chainrings. Your rear derailleur is attached to your rear shifter, which allows you to change the gears on your rear cassette.... whew! English, please? It's really not that difficult and with practice, you'll soon be switching gears without looking down! So just remember Right Rear and Left front. Small changes occur in the rear or the right shifter and larger changes occur in the front or left shifter.

Every cyclist has an ideal "cadence" or pedaling speed. When you are pedaling at your ideal cadence, you are putting out the greatest amount of power that you are able to sustain efficiently. You select your cadence by shifting gears. The gear that puts you at your "ideal" cadence will depend on the slope of the road, the wind conditions, and your own condition. Typically an ideal cadence will be around 80-90 rpm (revolutions of one pedal/minute).

People tend to use the terms "higher" and "larger" gear and "lower" and "smaller" gear interchangeably. This can be confusing, so it's best to understand the gearing and then you'll understand what they are talking about. Take the gears on the rear cassette. As you start to ride up a hill, you want to go into a "lower" or easier gear. This is a "larger" sized ring. See the confusion? Think of it this way. As you ride "up" a big hill, move the chain "up" the cassette to a bigger ring. As you ride "down" a small hill, move the chain "down" to a smaller ring.

Practice, practice, practice!! The more you move your gears around while riding, the more you will learn how important they are. If you are on a straight stretch of flat road, and there is relatively no traffic, don't be afraid to try new things. The worst thing is you'll have to stop. And then in this case you get to practice starting your bike.

Once you've mastered where your gears are and how to change them, now you can practice being an efficient gear changer. We've all heard people trying to change gears and the bike making lots of noises and crunching. This should be avoided. Changing gears should be soundless and effortless. A few things to remember while changing gears:

Remember that when you change a gear, the chain is also moving. If there is a lot of tension on the chain (because you are applying a lot of pressure on the pedals), it will be difficult to move. So, when changing gears, continue to pedal, but do it softly.

When you are approaching a hill where you will need a smaller gear, you want to start changing your gears BEFORE you reach the hill. This keeps a minimum pressure on the pedals, and allows you to maintain your cadence as you start to climb.

A dirty chain and gears (both front chainrings, and rear cassette) will cause you problems. The dirt and grease will interfere with smooth and quiet shifting. Also, as your bike builds up dust, dirt and grime, this gets into all the cables, causing friction while shifting. See Tip 9, Conquering the Maintenance Puzzle, to learn how to clean and maintain your bike.

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TIP 7: Switching to Clip Pedals

Riding with properly fit cycling shoes and clips tremendously increases your efficiency on the bike. With the same fitness, you will be able to ride longer, harder and faster.

The first few rides can be a little daunting, but here are a few tips to help you along the way.

Adjust the tension on your new pedals to its easiest position. (Instructions should come with the pedals)

Starting: Step over your bike, clip in one foot, push off and start riding without worrying about clipping in your second shoe. Once you get going it's easier to clip in your second shoe.

Stopping: When approaching a stop, unclip the foot you normally put down, at least 30 ft from the stop. Soft pedal to the stop then put down your free foot.

Eliminate panic by being prepared.

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TIP 8: Finding the Right Saddle for Your Body Type

We are all different in our pelvic structures, and although all the Trek WSD bikes come with Women Specific saddles, some women will need to do a little more research to find the perfect fit for their body type.

Soreness in your soft tissue can be caused by a number of different factors. Our soft tissue is delicate and if we are riding an improperly fit bicycle, or have incorrect posture on the bike, this area can get very sore. You should have most of your weight on your sit bones rather than your pubic bone and soft tissue. Basically more weight on the rear rather than the front. Adjusting the angle of the saddle can assist the distribution of weght.

Here are some suggestions on how to eliminate this soreness:

First, inspect your saddle. Is the nose pointing straight forward? Is the level of the saddle (from the tip of the nose to the base) level? If your saddle is crocked or not level, this could be the source of the problem. Always start with a level, straight saddle.

Next thing to check is your bike fit. If you are not sure how to do this, make an appointment with your authorized Trek dealer for a bike fit. Bring your bike, biking shoes and shorts you normally ride in. Things to look for in a bike fit are; seat height, cockpit length, and height of handlebars.

Next, analyze your riding style. It's very important to have a straight back with shoulders rolled slightly back. Don't sit directly with your soft tissue on the saddle. Be light on your saddle and stand up over bumps and railroad tracks. While riding, your grip on the handlebars should be light, but firm. Keep your arms slightly bent and relax your arms and shoulders. Use your core muscles to hold you up right, don't relax and slouch on your saddle.

If checking your bike fit and riding style does not alleviate the soreness, then it is time to try some new saddles. This can be the fun part. First, book an appointment with your local Trek dealer to test ride some saddles. Bring your bike, bike shorts and biking shoes. Pick out about 5 new saddles. Ask the mechanic to install each saddle in the exact same position as your original one. Give it a 5-10 min test ride. Either put it in the "maybe" pile or the "no-way" pile. Hopefully at the end, you will have 2 or 3 in the "maybe" pile. Buy one of them, and write down the model and style numbers of the rest. Now, go home and give this new saddle the ultimate test. Ride with it on your daily/weekly routines. Most stores have a 30-day money back guarantee on their saddles, and Bontrager has a 90-day money-back guarantee. (This gives you 30-90 days to fully test this saddle). Continue this until you find the perfect fit for your body type.

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TIP 9: Conquering the Maintenance Puzzle

Look Ma, I fixed my bike....and I have clean hands!
Weekly Maintenance: Removing and Reinstalling your Wheel

Removing your wheel from your bike (front and rear)

-	Open the brakes so that the brake pads move away from the rim (not applicable for disk brakes)

-	Move the quick release lever to the open position.

-	Hold the lever while loosening the nut on the other end of the lever (you won't need to do this for rear wheels)

-	When the nut is turned far enough for both sides of the skewer to clear the safety tabs on the fork, lift the wheel out of the dropout.

-	Presto, your wheel comes off the bike!

Reinstalling the wheel:

-	Put the wheel back into the dropouts with the quick release lever on the left, or non-drive train side, of the bike.
-	Hold the lever while tightening the nut on the right side of the bike.
-	When you start to feel resistance, move the lever to the half open position and continue turning the nut.
-	Once you feel that you have tightened the nut sufficiently, move the lever into the fully closed position. This is trial and error. The trick is to make sure that the skewer is hard enough to close that it leaves an impression on your hand, but you don't want it to be so hard that you can't get it open again.

Brakes

For complicated brake adjustment, make an appointment at your local Trek dealer. That being said, there are a couple of things that you can do to make sure your brakes will work properly for you. First, make sure that the wheel is centered in the dropout of the bike. You'll want to check this every time you take your bike in and out of a car, or off a roof rack, or after fixing a flat. Basically, anytime you remove either wheel of the bike.

To check wheel centering:

-	Inspect the brakes to see if one pad is closer to the rim than the other.
-	Stand the bike upright as if you were getting ready to ride.
-	Open the quick release skewer. The weight of the bike will center the wheel.
-	Close the skewer.

Next, check the brakes to make sure they are aligned. If the brakes are not aligned right, try moving the caliper with your hands. Sometimes the caliper will get moved around during transport. If this still doesn't sort the problem, take the bike to your local Trek dealer.

Finally, check the wear on our brake pads. There are 2 on the front, and 2 on the rear. Look at your brake pads periodically to see how much wear there is. Varying conditions, or even constant 'dry and dusty' conditions, can affect the life span of your brake pads. If you don't see much pad between the outer edge of the pad, and the brake shoe (the piece that holds the rubber pad in place), then it's time to change the pads. Your local Trek dealer can help you with getting the right brake pads for your bike and installing them.

Cleaning your bike.

Keeping your bike clean will go a long way to making sure you get a hearty life span from it. A clean bike also shifts and performs better. You don't need to be a professional mechanic, or have a barrage of tools in order to perform basic cleaning on your bike. The following tips will get you started on cleaning your bike.

Chain

-	Spray a degreaser onto a rag and directly on to the chain.
-	Wrap the rag around the chain on the bottom side of the chain. Use your thumb and index finger to hold the rag on the top and bottom of each link. You want to clean the rollers that sit in the middle of the chain links.
-	Rotate the cranks backwards while maintaining a firm grip on the rag. After you have run the chain through a couple of times with your fingers on the rollers, rotate them to the sides of the chain and continue turning the cranks.
-	After a few turns, put a cleaner part of the rag on the chain turn the cranks again. Do this until you see less and less dirt on the rag. The object is not to try and remove every last drop of grime from the chain, but to get MOST of the dirt off.
-	Put the rag on the jockey wheels of the derailleur and rotate the cranks.

Cassette

The best way to clean the rear cassette is to remove the rear wheel. You can use a rag, cassette brush, or an old toothbrush to remove much of the buildup that sits between the cogs.

-	Spray degreaser directly on to the cassette.
-	With the end of a rag, 'floss' between each cog. The cog will rotate as you move the rag back and forth and you will see dirt accumulate on the edge of the rag.
-	Change to a different edge of the rag while you are flossing.
-	Wipe around the teeth of each cog.

Lube

It is very important to lube the chain regularly. If you ride in excessively dry conditions, it's a good idea to lube the chain at least every other ride. If you ride in wet conditions, then you should lube after every ride. Before you apply the lube, run the chain through a rag to get most of the grime off before applying a new coat of lube.

Only lube the inside edge of the chain, i.e., where the chain is going to contact other metal. Lubing the outside of the chain only invites dirt from the tires and the road/trail surface to stick to the chain and then go through the rest of the drive train.

-	AFTER A RIDE: Clean the chain to remove dirt and old lube.
-	Use a drip lube to apply one drop to each of the rollers in a link on the inside run of the chain. Don't over-lube.
-	Once you have applied lube to each link, turn the cranks a few turns so that the lube can penetrate the moving parts of the chain.
-	Wipe away any excess that is dripping from the chain.
-	With a spray lube, spray the bushings of the derailleur jockey wheels as well as the joints and springs of the derailleur. BE CAREFUL to not let any lube get on the rims. If it does, wipe it of right away, as thoroughly as possible.
-	Turn the crank a few more times

Rims

Keeping your rims clean, helps with braking. It's ok to use solvents, like acetone or rubbing alcohol to clean rims. These evaporate and leave no residue on the rim. You can also use some degreasers, providing that they dry without a residue. Good ole fashioned mild soap and water always works.

-	Spray a solvent on a rag and hold the rag against the rim.
-	Turn the wheel while holding the rag firmly against the rim. Repeat for the other side of the rim.
-	Clean between the spokes, the spokes themselves, and the hub.
-	Inspect the brake pads for wear.
-	Inspect the rim for any signs that the brakes aren't properly aligned.

Frame

-	Always clean the frame last.
-	If the bike is really dirty, give it a soapy bath before cleaning anything. Make sure to wipe off water promptly to prevent rust!
-	Remove any dirt and grease from the frame by using a degreaser. Make sure to check the label of the degreaser for warnings against using it on painted surfaces.
-	Polish your bike by spraying a frame polish on to a rag, and directly on to the frame. BE CAREFUL to avoid getting any polish on the rims, or into the drive train.

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TIP 10: You are what you eat. Finding the right balance to keep you fit and fueled.

Don't try to lose weight the week before your event. You want to eat a well balanced diet; don't overload on calories, but don't under-fuel, either. Drink plenty of fluids the week of your event, especially water. Always try to eat 5-8 servings of vegetable/fruit per day and try to find foods that are all natural or local (in season). Protein is also very important for cyclists. Good sources of protein are lean meats, nuts and beans.

The night before you event, eat a well-balanced, easily digestible meal 2-3 hours before going to sleep. You want your body resting while you sleep, not busy digesting a heavy meal. Drink lots of water a few days before your event, especially if it is going to be hot and humid!

During and Post-Event: Antioxidants come in many forms and can be very helpful when training and traveling. The main antioxidants are Vitamin C and Vitamin E. Other supplements can be an energy bar/drink/gel you carry with you during the event. Always test products before the "big day." Read the nutritional label of your supplements and look for products from natural sources with no artificial sweeteners.

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